Wings

The goal of a proper wing clipping is to prevent the bird from maintaining flight while at the same time, allowing it to gain just enough lift to be able to glide to the ground without crashing. A bird that is unable to glide effectively becomes a free falling object if it jumps from a high spot. Wings that have been clipped too short can result in leg or wing fractures, split keels or broken beaks. Clipping both wings as opposed to one will also allow the bird better balance and the ability to glide evenly to the floor instead of on a spiral.

Wings can be trimmed at home or by a professional. It is best to have an experienced person show you how to perform a proper wing clipping prior to attempting to do it yourself. The bird will need to be restrained and the wing extended to expose the feathers for trimming. Normally, the first seven to ten long wing feathers, which are known as the primary feathers, are clipped about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up. How much and how many feathers to clip will depend on the species. Some species are stronger fliers than others. It's better to leave the feathers a little long than to clip them too short. If you find the bird is still able to maintain flight after a clipping, the feathers can be trimmed shorter.

Never cut a blood feather. This is a new feather still in it's sheath with a prominent blood supply that will bleed if cut or broken. If a blood feather is accidentally cut, the bleeding will need to be stopped by either packing the cut sheath with cornstarch or pulling out the bleeding shaft with a pair of pliers.

Eight to twelve weeks after the start of a molt, the wings will need to be trimmed again. Once cut feathers begin showing up on the bottom of the cage, it's time to start watching the wings. As soon as a new feather has finished growing in, it can be safely cut.

Nails

Short lengths of the nails can be trimmed without causing pain or bleeding for the bird. The sharp tips of nails can be snipped off with nail clippers and then a very rough emery board can be used to smooth out the nails.

Alternatively, a hobbyist drill can be used with a cone-shaped stone adapter to file and shape the nails.

A styptic powder such as "Kwik-Stop" can be used to stop any bleeding that may occur. We've used this product for many years with no adverse effects.

Concrete perches may also aid in dulling the nails of birds that will use them.

Beaks

Most birds' beaks never need trimming. If a bird's beak is overgrown, it may be misaligned or there may be an underlying medical condition that needs addressing.

The beak has a blood and nerve supply and an avian vet should determine how much, if any, of the beak should be removed. If too much of the beak is removed, permanent damage can be done and it may no longer grow.

Bathing

Most birds enjoy a bath or shower and frequent bathing encourages normal preening activity which is critical to proper feather maintenance.

Minimally, birds should be bathed once a week and the water should be applied in a fine mist. A misting bottle with plain warm water works well. Never use soaps, shampoos or detergents.

After bathing, the bird should have access to a warm, draft-free area to preen and dry.

Molting

All birds molt in order to lose old feathers and grow new ones. Molting is natural and not a sign of disease unless excessive.

Whenever new feathers begin to appear, the bird may become a little irritable and be seen preening vigorously. The emerging quills will cause the bird to itch and this vigorous preening should not be mistaken for feather picking. 

During the molt, a bird may benefit from additional protein in it's diet. Cooked chicken and hard boiled eggs are good sources of protein and most birds will enjoy them.